Monday, July 4, 2011


Steak tagliata at Lo Scoiattolo
       Never let it be said that we fail to meet our responsibility to report on the ristoranti around Umbria. It may require a lifetime of eating, but our mission and our focus are unwavering. How else would we justify those extra 5 kilos?

      Here's the latest list of favorites:

Taverna Sette
Taverna Sette in Trevi
    Run by a group of energetic ragazzi (young people), this place is sophisticated, charming and downright good. Partners in the business are the charming Sara Damiani and Gherardo Mugnoz, who are responsible for the ambience, beginning with the intriguing torches that draw diners from the piazza up a narrow stone vicolo to the ristorante. Chef Alfredo Santovito is inventive, turning local ingredients into tasty dishes with a twist. My favorite antipasto is the Ricottina, which is light, fresh and fluffy, served with toasted walnuts and a drizzle of honey.
Tomino cheese antipasto at Taverna Sette
    Find more details at The address is Vicolo del Sette 8, Trevi. Take the road up to the top of Trevi and come down to Piazza Mazzini to find it. They're closed on Wednesdays. Call 0742 78071 to ask for a table in the secluded atrium.

Lake Trasimeno from Lo Scoiattolo
Lo Scoiattolo is on the road up the mountain about 4 km above Tuoro on the right.
    We were feeling peckish while driving over the mountain on our way to Cortona from Gubbio. We passed this place, with its plastic tables and chairs out front, and thought it was a bar. What we needed was lunch. Rounding the curve, we came upon an astounding view of Lake Trasimeno, an unmissable photo opportunity. Since we were there, since we were hungry. . . . We walked in and saw the ristorante in the back. This is a great find for lunch on a gorgeous day. We ordered the succulent local white beans and delicious steak tagliata.

How to Get There  Lo Scoiattolo is directly on SS416, between Lisciano Niccone and Tuoro. Tel (+39) 075844119 Call if you want to reserve a veranda table overlooking the lake.

Taverna del Gusto in Deruta
    Our friend, Grazia Ranocchia, a Deruta city councilwoman, turned us to this one, which is right across the street from the comune building in the old part of Deruta. The official address is Via MastroGiorgio, 5. Ask Luciano to bring out an array of the ristorante's  antipastos, which are really delicious. Then perhaps share two or three pastas -- the fava bean and pecorino pasta is wonderful.
Tel: 075/9724120  Parking tip: park outside the gates to Deruta, as parking spaces can be sparse inside.

Roccofiore near Todi
     We wrote about Roccofiore several years ago for Luxury Travel Advisor magazine and then happened to go back recently with friends. We had forgotten the wonderful view of Todi from the terrace, not to mention the wonderful carpaccio Chianina. The atmosphere is quintessential upscale Umbria, with postcard landscapes to see in every direction.
Go to Roccofiore for details and directions.
Residenze l'Alberata in Collepepe
     For years, we've driven to Collepepe when we've needed foodstuffs on a Sunday morning. The deli/grocery there has prepared goodies, as well as staples to make Sunday lunch. Eventually the Andreani family built a few rooms upstairs; now they have opened a restaurant in their Sala del Gusto. They serve on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays only. The location is unexpected and charming, though you will have to climb three flights of stairs to get there (think of it as penance before you dig into the menu). There are different menus every weekend, with fixed price meals available, as well as ala carte.
Pasta with zucchini at l'Alberata
Go to Home Cooking for details.

   I suppose now you are wondering when I will recommend gyms in the area to work off all this eating, but no. Take to the countryside, where walking is a pleasure for the senses and always justifies the caffe and cornetto in the village bar afterwards.
Buon appetito!

copyright Sharri Whiting 2011


1 comment:

Lariko Melnik said...

Good heavens! I see visiting restaurants is a vocation you take seriously. Not surprising, with so many wonderful places around you to choose from.