We promised to do a post about parking in various Umbrian towns because so many visitors come by car and then don't know where to park. We don't know everything and we are ready for input from anyone who has a better idea to offer. For now, here are some hints.
GENERAL INFO
If the lines for parking spaces are blue, you must pay for parking. Parking areas also have a P on a sign either at the spot or directing you there. Be careful not to park in a handicapped space. To pay for parking, you must find the machinetta, the self-service machine. Use coins if possible, as some won't make change. The search for the machinetta can be frustrating -- they are usually mounted on a grey column and have a P sticker. The prices can be different depending on the place, so add money until the display shows the approximate time you want to leave. Then push the green button and collect the ticket. Now you must go back to your car and place the ticket (not upside down) on your dashboard so that the police can see that you have paid and are not using an expired ticket. (At some places with blue lines and no machinetta, you may have to go in the nearest bar and ask if they sell parking tickets. If so, put it on your dashboard as you would a ticket from a machinetta).
TODI
We like parking in the Orvietano parking lot because from there you can take the elevator up to the top of the town. We also prefer the steeper road up to Todi, which is reached coming from Ponte Rio -- there is a bridge, then an immediate right. There is a small building right at the corner. It's a straight shot up the hill to the gates of the town. Turn right there and follow the walls (and signs) around to Orvietano parking. If the elevator isn't working, there is always a shuttle bus every fifteen minutes. If you stay past midnight, you will have to walk down the steps, which are reached by taking the road next to Oberdan restaurant down to where the stairs begin. It's a parklike walk. If you think you will be later than midnight, you must pay the parking in advance so that your token will open the gate to get out of the lot. Otherwise, you'll have a problem.
If you prefer to drive up to the top, chances are you won't find parking. There is a parking lot at Piazza Garibaldi, which is usually full, and there is some public parking in front of San Fortunato church, which is also usually full. If you don't find a place, you'll have to drive back down and start over, which is why we really like Orvietano and the elevator.
If you decide that driving straight up the hill is too daunting, take the next road to Todi, after the train station, and you will wind your way to the top. You will arrive at a round about at Porta Romana gate to Todi. Facing the gate you will follow the walls around to the left, passing the big Bramante church (Consolazione) and staying to the left until you see the sign for Orvietano parking directing you to the right.
*** The Orvietano parking lot has a gate at the entrance. You will take a green plastic token from the machine at the gate. You will keep this token until you leave. The token is electric and the clerk will use it to see how much to charge you. You will put it in the gate to get out. See above for after midnight departures.
ORVIETO
In Orvieto we like to park across from the funicolare station, which is halfway to the top of the town. Follow the signs up to the centre, up and up until you arrive at the big parking lot on your right. The funicolare station is where the shuttle buses come to take you up to the piazza of the Duomo. Also, right here is the Pozzo di San Patrizio, the historic deep well that early inhabitants used to bring water safely up from the bottom of the rocca. Buy a ticket for the shuttle for 1 Euro inside the funicolare station. You will probably want to walk back down the hill to your car, as the streets are lined with shops, restaurants, and galleries.
Your other option is to follow the signs to the train station and park there. You would then take the funicolare from there up to the station mentioned above, take the shuttle, etc.
DERUTA
Although we often buy ceramics at the southern exit from the E45, sometimes we like to go up to the old town. The ceramics museum is a good one and there are many small studios with working artists. Therefore, drive up to the centre, following the signs. Outside the gate of the town, there are some parking spaces. If those are full, there is a bigger lot just down the road across from the cemetery.
PERUGIA
Thank goodness for the wonderful Mini Metro. To catch it, get off the E45 when you see the sign for the stadium (stadio) at the Madonna Alta exit. You will find a very big parking lot and the Mini Metro station there. Buy a ticket from the machine and hop on this very clever transport system. Get off at the last stop and you will be steps away from Corso Vannucci. The parking here is free.
SPOLETO
We like to park across the Via Flaminia (SS3) from the town and walk across the old ponte (bridge) and down to the town. It's a very dramatic way to enter Spoleto. What you need to do is find the San Pietro church, which is on the map, across the highway from the town. Follow the road to the left and you will arrive at the entrance to the walkway across the old aquaduct. Park there. With camera in hand, walk down the path and across this amazing bridge. When you arrive on the other side, look back and take a photo. Then walk down to the little piazzetta with the fountain with the face. You are now above the Duomo. This parking is free.
Trying to park in the town is difficult because there is a series of one way streets and if you make the wrong turn or the parking lot is full, you will have to start all over. You could try Piazza Liberta', which is where the tourist office is located, as well as the Roman theatre. There is a machinetta here.
ASSISI
Assisi is the most famous town in Umbria and, therefore, can be overwhelmingly full of tourists in the summer. We take the road that passes through Santa Maria degli Angeli and drive up towards Assisi until we are almost to the top. There will be sharp turn to the right and to the left, you will see a piazza where the entrance to the big parking lot is located.
This parking lot also offers underground parking, which is very nice in summer. There are also restrooms. To get to San Francesco duomo, you will have to walk up the hill, but not nearly as far as if you park other places. You take a parking ticket when you enter the lot and pay at the booth before you leave.
If you turn to the sharp right, as mentioned above, you will find another public parking lot on the right. From here you can walk through the entire town of Assisi to reach the Duomo, which can be interesting in cooler weather.
MONTEFALCO
Parking in the main piazza is iffy and the machinetta only gives you one hour. Plus, sometimes you can get up there, especially in tourist season, and find the road is blocked.
So, you should either 1) go in the Borgo Garibaldi gate on the west side of the walled town. As soon as you enter the gate, go left around the wall. There will be parking places along the wall, marked with blue lines, or, 2) turn left at Borgo Garibaldi outside the walls and go as far as you can toward the roundabout at the lookout point, Ringhiera Umbria. There are also parking spaces just beyond the lookout. From here you can walk up the Via Ringhiera Umbria to the Museum of San Francesco and the main piazza.
BEVAGNA
Coming down from Montefalco, Bevagna will be on the left just as the road turns sharply to the right. The landscape is flat here. The first entrance to Bevagna can be seen from your car. There is a parking lot before the bridge outside the walls to the right. The lot can be seen from the road. Otherwise, if you go to the other end of Bevagna (towards Foligno), you will find parking outside of that gate, as well.
NORCIA
Norcia is surrounded by a heart-shaped wall. We usually turn right along the wall and then left again at the point of the heart. There is parking along the wall and across the street from the gate that leads into the town on Via Roma. This is the closest way to arrive at the main piazza.
Umbria Bella
Living in a place, if only for a week or two, is the way to know it. Going to the grocery store, the post office, the bank -- these are the ways to begin to see familiar faces, to build acquaintances and turn them into friends. Umbria was the home of St Francis of Assisi and artists like Perugino and it is the site of some of the most well preserved medieval towns in Europe. Olive oil, wine, porcini mushrooms, truffles, and more fill the plates of Umbrians and their visitors.
Monday, June 17, 2013
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
OUR FAVORITE UMBRIAN RESTAURANTS UPDATE: SUMMER 2013
Siro's (Torgiano) roasted tomato caprese |
It’s
time for an update: Umbrian restaurants that we know and love. This is by no
means a complete list and we welcome suggestions. (Don’t forget to look on a
previous post for some of our favorite outdoor eating spots).
NOTE: We’ve
included the closing day when we know it. We’ve also included a phone number.
As for website links, the problem is that
some places don’t have webpages and those that do often don’t translate into
English. We hope we've given you enough info so that you can google.
San
Terenziano
We have a new arrival on
the piazza in ST, Buongustaio, which
means “gourmet” in Italian. There are about twelve tables. The food is
traditional and good. The location is convenient and easy to find for visitors
to the area. Tel. 347-366-1689
Nash and Cash still have their pizzeria,
which is on the road between San Terenziano and Grutti. Since the bright lights
inside are rather blinding, you might prefer to order take out or sit outside
if weather permits. There are menus for pizzas with tomato sauce (rosso) and
pizzas without (bianco).
Pizzas here are expected to be shared with the whole table, so groups of four
often order at least three. There are several sizes.
Closed Monday. Tel.
0742-932191
Grutti
La chef at Le Noci |
Frontignano
Casale dei Frontini is a typical agriturismo located on the road between San Terenziano and Todi at the village of Frontinano. You will see a big olive pressing stone at the entrance. The menu is what's cooking today, always good and always local. Call to book. Tel 075-8852174.
Collesecco/Saragano
The Dinosauro pizzeria has enjoyed a resurgence since the Oste lost
their lease in ST and moved to Bastardo. Dino has good thin crust and lots of
choices of toppings. Vegetarians will find lots to eat, as well as lovers of
salumeria (cured meats) and salciccia (sausage). Closed Monday. [You would
think the local pizza parlors would realize that if they both close on the same
day somebody is missing out on selling pizza to the starving masses who now
have to drive to Bastardo (6 km)]. Tel. 0742-98771
Bisteca at La Vecchia Cucina |
La Vecchia Cucina has been a favorite of
ours since we arrived in 1997. Giovanni, the owner, and his son fly private
aircraft and ride horses, in addition to serving the best Chianina bisteca
fiorentina this side of Florence (see our earlier post about that succulent
dish). They also serve good pasta (eggplant with sausage is terrific) and local
wines. They used to close on Wednesdays, but now they close on Monday. Tel. 0742-97237
Locanda del Prete in Saragano is the
restored section of the medieval town. The views are beautiful and the setting
is lovely. It’s a nice restaurant, so dress smart casual. Call in advance. Tel.
0742-98636
Montefalco
Coccorone |
This is a town to savor, from the wines to the
oils to the restaurants. We enjoy two sister restaurants, the informal Federico II (Tel. 0742-378902) on the
square and the charming Coccorone
hidden away (follow the signs or ask at Federico II). Federico II offers both
light fare and full traditional meals inside and out. Since they also sell
wine, they have a wide selection of the best wines along the Sagrantino Wine
Route, as well as throughout Umbria. Coccorone has a small terrace, as well as
a lovely dining room. Dress is smart casual. Coccorone (Tel. 0742-379535) is
closed Wednesdays.
For a wonderful
holiday dinner, we love Villa Pambuffetti.
Housed in an Italianate villa, the hotel and restaurant offer old style
elegance. The food is excellent, overseen by Alessandra Pambuffetti, and the
sommelier is Mauro, her husband. Alessandra’s cousins produce the
well-respected Scacciadiavoli wines. Her cooking classes are wonderful
interactive experiences followed by lunch with wine in the dining room. Closed
Monday.
Tel. 0742-379417
Olevm (Oleum--the Romans did not have a "u") is a tiny place with big flavor. There
are only a few tables inside and even fewer outside. In the back is a little
deli. There is a wide variety of oils to taste and the soups are very good. Find
it on Corso Mameli about halfway down. Call first if you want an outside table
or have a large group at 0742-379057.
Also on the piazza is the more
sophisticated Aurum in the boutique
hotel/spa, Buonadosi. In summer, there is a terrace in the back with beautiful
views as well as tables in the piazza. The inside space is sleek and more
upmarket. Closed Wednesday. Tel. 0742-379357
A lot of people
really like Alchimista across the
main piazza from Federico II and in summer when the tables are outside, it is
very pleasant. In the colder months, the dining room is in the cellar. There is
a shop for wines and oils on the ground floor. Closed Tuesday. 0742-378558
We tried Spiritodivino and it must have been a
bad day. The food and service did
not live up to the décor and location, not to mention the hype. We had to beg
for attention, though the inside of the restaurant was empty. The terrace was
almost full and there was only the manager and one bus person working. The
manager stood off to the side and chatted with a friend while we waited almost
half an hour for our wine. Perhaps you will have better luck. Closed all day
Monday, Tuesday lunch. Tel. 0742-379048
There are some
attractive ristoranti on the street leading down to the big arch, Corso Mameli.
We haven’t tried them all, so please let us know what you discover.
Trevi
We’ve written about Taverna del Sette before – it’s a
hidden treasure in the historic center of Trevi. It’s on the tiny Del Sette
street off the Piazza Mazzini. Tel. 0742-780741.
Clitunno/Pissignano
We discovered Zenzero one Sunday after shopping the
monthly outdoor market at Pissignano. Located right on the lazy Clitunno River
near Fonti del Clitunno, the outside tables offer a shady respite from hot
summer days. The food is good, too. Tel. 0742-780241. The address is actually
Via Chiesa Tonda 50, Fonte Pigge.
Deruta
If you’re going there to
buy ceramics, you just might get hungry. On the E45 just before Deruta, there
is Antico Forziere (075-9724314), an
upmarket restaurant in a rustic setting. In the historic center of Deruta there
is Taverna del Gusto (075-9724120),
which is a good restaurant with a few outdoor tables. It’s right around the
corner from the excellent ceramics museum.
Ripabianca/Collepepe
Hungry for lunch, but
not time to spare from sightseeing or shopping? Try Fiaschetto, which offers a flat price antipasto buffet on weekdays.
Other times, enjoy their lengthy menu of Umbrian specialities, pizzas and more.
Get off the E45 at Ripabianca, go to the crossroads at the Due Torre shopping
center, go under the highway, follow the road south and the restaurant will be
on your right. Closed Wednesdays. The restaurant is officially in Collepepe.
Tel. 075-8789347.
Alberata is a little place with a
different menu every week. Closed on Wednesday. Call to book at 075-8789345.
Collazzone
Al Leone (075-8788020) offers a good menu of tasty local dishes, as
well as pizza. There is outside dining in summer. Park in the lot behind the
church – the restaurant is just across the street.
Todi
For a long time, there
weren’t many good places to eat in Todi. That has changed. Here are a few of
better ones. The town isn’t big, so you’ll find these pretty easily.
Mercataccio |
Osteria delle Valle is a very small place with a big reputation,
well deserved. John, a Scotsman, is the chef and the food is really good. Tel.
075-8944848.
Oberdan is also very small and started out as an enoteca. The menu
is limited, changed daily. There is very nice outside dining in the summer. The
waiters can be a bit dogmatic about your wine choice, which can be a bit
frustrating. 075-8945409
Mercataccio is one we really like.
Really good food in a historic setting. Go down Via Cavour and turn down the
staircase at Via Mercato Vecchio. Tel. 075-8944799
La Scalette is down the staircase at
Via Scalette not far from S. Fortunato church. Their terrace is nice and
shady. We like the meat dishes. Tel. 075-8944422
La Mulinella has very good food in a
location outside the town, at Ponte Naia. Turn down the road to the swimming
pool. Tel. 075-8944779
Roccofiore is an upmarket place to have
lunch in the summer. The terrace is lovely, with a view of Todi. They make
their own wines. Go to Localita’ Collina, Chioana di Todi. Tel. 075-8942416.
Pane
& Vino is casual and relaxed. The antipasto keep on coming. Tel. 075-8945448
Umbria is a traditional trattoria with a
view. Tel. 075-8942737
Lake Corbara
Titignano |
Along and
above the lake are restaurants appealing to both those coming from Todi and
those from Orvieto.
Titignano is one of those places you don’t forget. How marvelous
that they are able to serve an endless array of dishes to more than two hundred
people and it is all delicious. It is also a great price: 25 Euros for a dozen courses
with water, coffee and wine. The setting is spectacular, too: a medieval town
on a hill overlooking the Tiber river, with the duomo of Orvieto silhouetted on
the distant horizon. You’ll need to book here for Saturday and Sunday lunches.
Lunch begins at 12:30 and ends after 4 pm. You can always stay in one of the
rooms if you don’t feel like driving home. Titignano is located on the north
side of the Tiber, about half an hour from Todi or Orvieto. Tel. 0763-308000
Pasta with fave and beets at Trippini |
Trippini is one of our newest finds. A
tiny restaurant in the hilltop village of Civitello del Lago, it is home to one
of Italy’s hottest young chefs.
Be sure to book as
there are only six tables. The view here equals that of Titignano, though it is
on the south side of the lake. We’ll be back with more on this one. Fixed price
four course lunch 35 Euros. Sophisticated cuisine, good service. Closed Monday. Tel.
074-4950316
Osteria del Belvedere |
Osteria del Belvedere is on the moderate end of the price scale, but it
definitely holds its own on taste. There are both seafood and meat choices.
Seafood is brought in fresh from the Mediterranean port of Civitavecchia. Pasta
with vongole (clams) or scoglie (mixed seafood) is very as good as on the coast
and costs less. Located about halfway between Todi and Orvieto on the south
side of the lake. Tel. 0744-950140.
Collevalenza/Acquasparta
Il Re Beve at Castello Casigliano is great for Sunday lunch, on the
terrace in summer or in front of the blazing fire in winter. They have good
meats and the location is lovely. Get off the E45 at the Collevalenza
exit. Closed Wednesday. Tel. 0744-943428
Spoleto
Tric Trac, which is on the piazza near the duomo, is a
good place to stop for lunch or an aperitivo when you’re sightseeing in
Spoleto. Tel. 0743-44592.
Spello
Spello is a beautiful little town, which
is a good place to go after the crowds in Assisi. We’ve been to La Bastiglia
(Tel. 0742-651277), which is upmarket and sophisticated with one Michelin star,
as well as the more trattoria-style Il Mulino (Tel. 0742-651305) and Il
Pinturicchio (Tel.0742-301784).
Assisi
We love Assisi,
but don’t often stay there for a big meal. We’ve been to the Ristorante San Francesco, which was nice
and had a good view of the valley. Tel. 0758-12329.
Orvieto
Vinosus, a small restaurant on the left side of the duomo, is our
choice for lunch in Orvieto. There is a lovely small terrace and a good wine
list. Closed Sunday evening and Mondays. Tel. 0763-34107.
San Francesco, around the corner from the cathedral, is a good
place for a quick buffet lunch – it’s open every day.
Norcia, Preci,
Casteluccio
Vespasia in Palazzo Seneca, Norcia, is a beautifully restored
cardinal’s palace with an excellent restaurant. It's pricey, but
the atmosphere is lovely. Tel. 0743-817434.
Grotta Azzurra is owned by the same family as Palazzo Seneca. It’s
a big trattoria with traditional food near the main piazza in Norcia. Tel.
0743-816513.
People
travel from all around to Il Castoro
in Preci, a town a few miles from Norcia. The food is really good. The location
is near the national park and various hiking trails. Tel. 0743-939248.
Castelluccio is about 25 km from Norcia up in the mountains. It’s a
spectacular location, worth the drive. The town overlooks the vast fields of lentil and
other legumes, so it’s great place to buy beans and grains to take home.
The farro and lentil soups in any of the small restaurants are always good.
Torgiano
Siro is a little hotel with really good
food. It’s worth the trip to Torgiano. For a large group the house antipasto is
impressive and delicious. Tel. 075-982010.
Book on Sunday for lunch or if you are a large group.
Corciano
Il Convento is a good restaurant in a beautifully restored convent.
The town of Corciano is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Italy.
075-6978946.
Bastardo
4 Piedi & 8.5
Pollici is a tiny ristorante behind the EMI supermarket in Bastardo. Chef Laura
will make homemade pasta at your table on request. The menu changes daily. Book
at Tel. 333-997-9958.
Pizzeria d'
Oste was located in San Terenziano for about ten years. When they lost their
lease they moved to Bastardo. Same good pizza. Closed Monday. Tel. 0742-960287.
Monti Martani
Standing high on the mountain above the valley that runs from Todi to Perugia and Assisi, Trevi to Spoleto is Il Rifugio, aka Rifugio San Gaspare, a rustic restaurant with a stunning view. Follow the signs from Bastardo to Giano dell' Umbria to Monti Martani. Giano is a lovely little village which you will drive through until you reach the road that goes up (ever up) the mountain. Il Rifugio is near the antennae that you can see from the bottom. Inside is a large fireplace where the meats are grilled. There is also seating outside. Tel 0742-90189.
Montecastello di Vibio
Home the world's tinest theatre, Montecastello di Vibio is also home to Il Grottino di Zio Toto', a small restaurant with very good food. You can eat outside in summer. Tel. 075-8780652
Monti Martani
Standing high on the mountain above the valley that runs from Todi to Perugia and Assisi, Trevi to Spoleto is Il Rifugio, aka Rifugio San Gaspare, a rustic restaurant with a stunning view. Follow the signs from Bastardo to Giano dell' Umbria to Monti Martani. Giano is a lovely little village which you will drive through until you reach the road that goes up (ever up) the mountain. Il Rifugio is near the antennae that you can see from the bottom. Inside is a large fireplace where the meats are grilled. There is also seating outside. Tel 0742-90189.
Montecastello di Vibio
Home the world's tinest theatre, Montecastello di Vibio is also home to Il Grottino di Zio Toto', a small restaurant with very good food. You can eat outside in summer. Tel. 075-8780652
Sharri Whiting, 2013
Sunday, August 5, 2012
Dancing the Liscio in the Piazza
The festival in San Terenziano is in full swing. Whole families come for dinner in the piazza, enjoying local specialities like strongozzi with funghi porcini at picnic tables beneath the trees. At nine the music begins in front of the medieval borgo and everyone between 8 and 80 dances the liscio accompanied by a crooner (or crooness) and a brace of accordians. The streets are filled with baby strollers, long legged teenagers, and elderly ladies and gentlemen strolling under the stars. Gelatos in hand, they sway to the music, watching their neighbors dance. It could be Cinema Paradiso, so magical is summer here in Umbria.
--Sharri Whiting
--Sharri Whiting
Saturday, May 5, 2012
Pane: From Wheat Field to Baker to Table
Wheat growing in central Umbria |
Pane sciapo |
To be honest, I really adore the thickly crusted and divinely chewy casareccio in Rome more than the sciapo (saltless) bread they make in Umbria, at least for nibbling. Sometimes, though, history trumps taste, and in the case of this traditional Umbrian bread, I respect the history. This particular bread has been baked here without salt since the mid-16th century, invented in rebellious response to the Pope's blockade of salt to this landlocked region. While it's not the best to eat on its own, it serves very well as a delivery system for olive oil or gravy.
The most famous of the saltless breads comes from Strettura, a tiny village on the Via Flaminia between Spoleto and Terni. We went over there the other morning in time to see the raised loaves slid into the fiery wood-burning ovens at Forno Vantaggi. It's said their combination of local spring water, mixed grains and no salt is the best in Umbria.
Raking out the coals |
The risen loaves |
The old recipes |
Torta al Testa |
At Easter, Umbrians eat pane formaggio (cheese bread). There is also pan nociato, bread with nuts, and pan caciato, bread made with olive oil, pepper, nuts and Umbrian pecorino (sheep cheese). We are not suffering from lack of choice here in central Italy.
Note: We visited Strettura as part of the annual Beecoming Festival, which offers events of all kinds in Umbria in late April/early May.
Copyright Sharri Whiting 2012
Friday, February 10, 2012
Snowed in with Internet, phone, and the miraculous bed heater
Italy is snuggled up under a blanket of snow after the second big storm in a week. Last Friday, our drive to Umbria from Rome, normally a two hour trip, took eight hours.
We were stuck twice in snow and ice climbing the hill to San Terenziano from Todi Ponte Rio. When we finally arrived on Via Palombaro, we were forced to leave our car at La Casetta Rosa and walk down through the drifts to Yellow House. Luckily we were bundled up in thick coats and fur hats, accumulated during our days living in
Boston. It was dark and we picked our way in the light of a tiny pocket flashlight--we expect adrenalin rushes when we visit the Namibian bush, but not here in the placid countryside.
And yet, unlike the inhabitants of this house a century or more ago, we have the Internet, Satellite tv, space heaters for our feet, and the magical body sized heating pads that go under the bottom sheet of the bed. (If you ask me, this latter invention ranks right up there with the creation of pizza).
Like our forebears, we are busy keeping the fire burning and the soup pot bubbling on the stove. The water taps are dripping and we've put on the snow tires in case our neighbor is able to clear the road with his tractor. We are well stocked with pasta, vino, and cat food for Winona.
So far, so good.
PS The bottle tree is holding its own in the snow, reminding us of blue skies and summer sunsets.
We were stuck twice in snow and ice climbing the hill to San Terenziano from Todi Ponte Rio. When we finally arrived on Via Palombaro, we were forced to leave our car at La Casetta Rosa and walk down through the drifts to Yellow House. Luckily we were bundled up in thick coats and fur hats, accumulated during our days living in
Boston. It was dark and we picked our way in the light of a tiny pocket flashlight--we expect adrenalin rushes when we visit the Namibian bush, but not here in the placid countryside.
And yet, unlike the inhabitants of this house a century or more ago, we have the Internet, Satellite tv, space heaters for our feet, and the magical body sized heating pads that go under the bottom sheet of the bed. (If you ask me, this latter invention ranks right up there with the creation of pizza).
Like our forebears, we are busy keeping the fire burning and the soup pot bubbling on the stove. The water taps are dripping and we've put on the snow tires in case our neighbor is able to clear the road with his tractor. We are well stocked with pasta, vino, and cat food for Winona.
So far, so good.
PS The bottle tree is holding its own in the snow, reminding us of blue skies and summer sunsets.
Thursday, January 5, 2012
THE OLIVE OIL TSUNAMI
Olives waiting to be pressed at a frantoio, Umbria |
In the aftermath of the current
olive oil scandal sweeping across Europe, four or five multi-nationals will be
chastised for blending oils from several Mediterranean countries and selling
them as 100% Italian, or, as Extra Virgin when they aren’t. This European network of inter-locking
corporations, defined by La Repubblica, the
Italian newspaper (Dec. 26, 2011) as a cartel and an agro-mafia, will probably
be fined.
Consumers across the globe will be left with a bad
taste in their mouths, determined never again to buy Italian extra virgin olive
oil, which has always been thought by many to be the best.
Old olive trees, Puglia |
As a result, thousands of small
independent producers, often with families dependent on the annual harvest to
put the next year’s food on the table, will be unfairly tainted, tarred with
the same brush as the mass market suppliers. They may be producing DOP oil (Protected
Designation of Origin, an EU designation), recognized as the best regional
extra virgin olive oil, but they might as well be making the same sorry swill
stocked on the shelves of supermarket chains around the world.
Whose job is it to police the
industry? There are regulations in place in the European Union and fraud units
assigned to the daunting task of finding the cheats in the olive oil trade. The U.S. passed regulations about olive
oil categories in 2010, but they are voluntary. Nobody has enough inspectors.
It’s the perfect situation for fraud.
So, what is the consumer who
loves olive oil to do?
TTPPT: Taste Trust Price
Producer Travel
Taste. Educate your palate, just as you would
if you were buying wine. There are plenty of alternatives to mass-market olive
oil. Specialized olive oil stores have opened around the world and many offer
customers the opportunity to taste the oil before they buy it. Look for the freshest oil. Don’t go for
the clear bottles, which don’t protect the oil from spoilage as well as dark
glass or tins. Use your oil in a few months and store it in a dark, cool spot.
Trust. Find a specialty shop that sells oil and develop a
relationship with the owner or buyer.
Ask them to set up a tasting of several oils or set one up yourself.
(See how the professionals do it by downloading Olive Oil IQ to your smartphone or tablet).
Price. You get what you pay for, just like when
buying wine. You may come upon a jug wine or a mass produced olive oil that’s
pretty good, but if you want DOP extra virgin olive oil, or a bottle of DOCG
vino, you will have to pay more than 5 Euros or 5 pounds or 5 dollars for it if
you want a product that has been picked and pressed by a local producer in the
traditional way.
Producer. Find the producers whose oil you
like and ask your local shop to let you know when the new oil arrives. Every
year will be slightly different, dependent on the harvest, but eventually you will
recognize a group of labels that offer the oil you want.
Travel. If you’ve followed the wine
routes, think about traveling the olive oil routes. All across the
Mediterranean, from Italy to Spain to France to Greece, as well as in the New
World, there are places to taste and buy local extra virgin olive oil. Often wineries will also produce oil,
so check the websites of the wines you like. Make the experience a part of a
culinary vacation, as way of educating yourself to know what good oil tastes
like, as well as to experience the ambience that is an essential part of a
local olive oil culture.
This blog post was originally posted on http://oliveoiliq.blogspot.com.
copyright Sharri Whiting 2012
Saturday, December 3, 2011
So said Pliny and he was probably right
The good green stuff |
The third week of November is the highlight of our year, when ten friends from four countries arrive on Via Palombaro to spend a week picking our olives, drinking the local garage wine, and catching up on what has happened in the U.S., the Netherlands, Namibia, England and Italy over the last year.
What is it about olive picking that is so engaging, so refreshing to mind and body? Is it the fresh air? Is it the respite from ongoing (and often tiresome) responsibilities? A chance to get back to basics, to the relationship between humans and the land? A moment to be with friends, without cell phones ringing or texting, appointments waiting, chores to do?
Pickin' and grinnin' |
The aimless chatter of familiar voices emits from the trees like birdsong, spiced with laughter, hoots and hollers, and sometimes a song (our Swedish friend comes from Todi to pick with us and amuses himself by singing Scandinavian folk tunes). Occasionally, a mild expletive that soars across the field, when a basket full of olives is dropped, if the olives begin to roll off the net and down the hill, or if a ladder shifts, throwing its occupant to the ground.
The end of the day |
Monday, July 4, 2011
Hungry?
Steak tagliata at Lo Scoiattolo |
Here's the latest list of favorites:
Taverna Sette |
Run by a group of energetic ragazzi (young people), this place is sophisticated, charming and downright good. Partners in the business are the charming Sara Damiani and Gherardo Mugnoz, who are responsible for the ambience, beginning with the intriguing torches that draw diners from the piazza up a narrow stone vicolo to the ristorante. Chef Alfredo Santovito is inventive, turning local ingredients into tasty dishes with a twist. My favorite antipasto is the Ricottina, which is light, fresh and fluffy, served with toasted walnuts and a drizzle of honey.
Tomino cheese antipasto at Taverna Sette |
Lake Trasimeno from Lo Scoiattolo |
We were feeling peckish while driving over the mountain on our way to Cortona from Gubbio. We passed this place, with its plastic tables and chairs out front, and thought it was a bar. What we needed was lunch. Rounding the curve, we came upon an astounding view of Lake Trasimeno, an unmissable photo opportunity. Since we were there, since we were hungry. . . . We walked in and saw the ristorante in the back. This is a great find for lunch on a gorgeous day. We ordered the succulent local white beans and delicious steak tagliata.
How to Get There Lo Scoiattolo is directly on SS416, between Lisciano Niccone and Tuoro. Tel (+39) 075844119 Call if you want to reserve a veranda table overlooking the lake.
Taverna del Gusto in Deruta
Deruta |
Tel: 075/9724120 Parking tip: park outside the gates to Deruta, as parking spaces can be sparse inside.
Roccofiore near Todi
We wrote about Roccofiore several years ago for Luxury Travel Advisor magazine and then happened to go back recently with friends. We had forgotten the wonderful view of Todi from the terrace, not to mention the wonderful carpaccio Chianina. The atmosphere is quintessential upscale Umbria, with postcard landscapes to see in every direction.
Roccofiore |
Residenze l'Alberata in Collepepe
For years, we've driven to Collepepe when we've needed foodstuffs on a Sunday morning. The deli/grocery there has prepared goodies, as well as staples to make Sunday lunch. Eventually the Andreani family built a few rooms upstairs; now they have opened a restaurant in their Sala del Gusto. They serve on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays only. The location is unexpected and charming, though you will have to climb three flights of stairs to get there (think of it as penance before you dig into the menu). There are different menus every weekend, with fixed price meals available, as well as ala carte.
Pasta with zucchini at l'Alberata |
I suppose now you are wondering when I will recommend gyms in the area to work off all this eating, but no. Take to the countryside, where walking is a pleasure for the senses and always justifies the caffe and cornetto in the village bar afterwards.
Buon appetito!
copyright Sharri Whiting 2011
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